Culinary Weekend in San Sebastian (Basque Country, Spain)
Map of San Sebastian
San Sebastian (also called Donostia in Basque language) is located on the north coast of Spain, in Basque Country
San Sebastian has 200,000 citizens and was built around a beautiful bay, called the Concha. The city is actually pretty old, and was rebuilt a few times (the city was once burned), and fosters beautiful monuments, heritage from the royal family who spend their summer in their royal palace here. San Sebastian has beautiful beaches and landscape, and is one of the best places for food aficionados in Spain.
Several neighborhoods, all interesting, but with limited time, focus on the Old Town around the cathedral, "parte vieja", and with more time, the "gros" and the "centro"
The Miramar
I start the visit with the Palais Miramar on one end of the bay "concha"
The town straddles the beautiful and scenic Bay of Concha, with beautiful sea colors, mountains and landscape
The Concha Bay
You are only a couple streets away from this beautiful view on the Concha Bay. No wonder the queen decided to build her summer palace here ! Who doesn't want to wake up seeing this view every morning ??
The beach is very popular in summer, but the rest of the year is too cold for bathing
The town straddles the beautiful and scenic Bay of Concha, with beautiful sea colors, mountains and landscape
I particularly like to watch the sunset from here
The "Pintxo" or "Tapa"
Local Basque bars and restaurants serve "Pintxo", what is known elsewhere in Spain as "Tapa".
"Pintxos" is the used name in Basque country for "tapas". Pronounce "Pin-tcho"
In the "parte vieja" neighborhood (old town)
The old town is a real labyrinth of taverns and a few restaurants, so numerous that it's hard to resist the urge to stop as you wander around. However, beware of tourist traps! Some places are truly worth a visit, while others can be quite disappointing
Restaurant Ganbara (in the old town). My rating: 5/5
If there's only one place that should be mentioned, it's this one. I discovered this spot through Anthony Bourdain's culinary shows. Moreover, Michelin-starred chefs say this is where they come: This restaurant is the hidden gem of San Sebastian's taverns
Casa Urola
Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 20
Tel: +34 943 44 13 71
A dish I highly recommend is the pintxos croissants, which are incredibly fresh and delicious. Try the mushrooms and fried eggs dish as well. All the pintxos I tasted were of superior quality compared to those from the surrounding taverns
Ganbara
C. de San Jerónimo, 21
Tel: +34943422575
Restaurant Casa Urola (in the old town). My rating: 5/5
An outstanding spot for the exceptional quality of their fish
However, a word of warning: the ground floor is the pintxos/tapas bar, which you should avoid unless you're short on time. The service is poor, and they only serve a portion of the menu's dishes
I recommend booking the restaurant upstairs. The service is excellent, the menus are interesting, and the dining room is very pleasant
Despite the quality meats, it’s primarily the fish that has made this place famous. I highly recommend the cangrejo (baked crab).
Casa Urola
Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 20
Tel: +34 943 44 13 71
Restaurant La Jarana (in the old town). My rating: 4.5/5
This charming little restaurant is located in a beautiful upscale hotel, and La Jarana was a delightful discovery. Here, the pintxos are much more elegant than those in the taverns, but the friendly atmosphere is still present—just more sophisticated, with a more refined clientele.
Mari Kalea, 3
Tel: +34 943547001
The Bar Martinez (in the old town). My rating: 5/5
An institution in the city, I love coming here on every visit. The owner, his family, and the staff are just generous and very friendly. The quality of the pintxos is outstanding, fresh and delicious. Comfortably seated, you'll be pampered, and despite the closeness, it feels a bit more spacious than elsewhere
31 de Agosto Kalea
+34 943424965
Spending long hours savoring and chatting with the Basque owner has made it a favorite tavern for me
The Goiz Argi (in the old town). My rating: 4.5/5
A tiny tavern where the dishes are delicious, but there's no seating, so I only come here in the early evening before heading to a restaurant
Delicious pintxos that I find very fresh. In fact, you can smell the stove while tasting. The owner is a true Basque, but he’s full of charm and humanity. A place to try for an early evening
Bodega Donostiarra Gros
Peña y Goñi Kalea, 13
+34 943011380
The Bartolo bar (in the old town). My rating: 4/5
Another bar that is worth stopping at, the bar Bartolo, more traditional than the previous one, but a must stop
Casa Bartolo
38, Fermin Calbeton Kalea
Tel: +34 943420279
The Beti Jai bar (in the old town). My rating: 4/5
One of the tapas bars I liked particularly, the Beti Jai
Beti Jai
22, Calle de Fermín Calbetón
What I liked at the Beti Jai besides the quality of the food, is the modern twist. Some of the pintxos are unique, as they are more original than the traditional tapas, with new ingredients combined together
The Beti Jai also has more traditional pintxos. This is a bocadillo, a traditional sandwich made with fresh bread and local ham, freshly cut
La Viña (in the old town). My rating: 2/5
I do not recommend this restaurant, as it is first and foremost crowded and poorly arranged (you are constantly bumped into). Worse, the server is extremely unpleasant.
The waiter you see on the left (the only one I haven't blurred) starts to shout at the customers and, thinking they won't understand Spanish, insults them
La Viña
31 de Agosto Kalea, 3
The only reason I decided to mention this poorly-run tavern is that their homemade cheesecake is exceptional. If anything, just come to order it and take it to go
In the "Gros" neighborhood
Crossing the bridge from the touristy "old town" area, you find yourself in the Gros neighborhood, a lively area that feels less suffocating.
Bodega Donostiarra (in the"Gros"). My rating: 4/5
Warning! There are several restaurants with the same name. I got tricked and started at the one in the Parte Vieja, but it's not the same restaurant at all! The one in the old town with the same name has no seating, and most importantly, it is very bad: Make sure to head to the right restaurant! (address below)
Bodega Donostiarra is a modern tavern where you can enjoy pintxos/tapas at the bar or at a table. The service is very friendly, and the dishes are very good. The atmosphere is that of a good tavern frequented by both locals and tourists.
I recommend trying the octopus skewers, cooked to perfection, making the octopus very tender and full of grilled flavor. The restaurant is also known for its grilled meat
Bodega Donostiarra Gros
Peña y Goñi Kalea, 13
+34 943011380
In the "centro" neighborhood
Bar Casa Valles (in the"centro"). My rating: 4/5
A great spot I've visited several times is Casa Valles Bar. The place is frequented by locals and is a true institution in the city—a legend that has been around since 1942. You can actually breathe here, unlike in the old town, and the servers, being less rushed, are friendlier.
I particularly recommend the "cod tortilla," a cod omelet with a subtle and harmonious flavor. The cooking is perfectly mastered, despite the complexity of the ingredients and the varying cooking times and methods. This is a must-try dish that I strongly suggest!
Bar Casa Valles (quartier 'centro')
Reyes Catolicos, 10
Tel: +34 943-45-22-10
3 stars Restaurants in San Sebastian
With several restaurants ranked among the top 20 in the world, including some with three Michelin stars, I couldn’t leave San Sebastian without trying their renowned starred restaurants that are talked about globally.
These restaurants are located on the outskirts of the city because they need more space. Some wanted to offer a beautiful ocean view, while others are old institutions that remain in their original buildings. You can reach them by taxi or Uber
As I was mentioning above, the region fosters a concentration of fine restaurants, two and three stars Michelin restaurants:
● Akelare (3 stars)
● Martin Berasategui (3 stars)
● Arzak (3 stars)
● Mugaritz (2 stars)
Restaurant Akelare. My rating: 5/5
The first impression as you walk in the restaurant is the mesmerizing view on the ocean
Restaurant Akelare
Padre Orkolaga Ibilbidea, 56
Tel: +34 943311209
The restaurant is built on top of a cliff. You will probably get the best experience at diner time as you will see one of your best sunsets ever while tasting top world class cuisine...
Sophisticated meal, original presentation, and of course de-li-cious ! With this course you can see different items that each taste a different ocean flavor
As you are in Basque Country, a good meal has Fish AND Meat, all locally grown products. The restaurant is especially reputated for its Fish
This course is one of the best famous ones here. A mousse with an unexpected taste, but I will NOT tell anything. Come here to taste it !
The "Tasting Menu" has many different courses that will allow you to taste one of the best Basque Cuisine.
Yet another surprise, you will never guess what it tastes like, and no, I will not say anything about it !
Pedro Subijana is an incredibly talented chef, and very approachable. The entire staff was professional and very nice
A unique experience that concludes the visit of San Sebastian. Come and try Akelare, I guarantee you will NOT be disappointed by this great experience
Restaurant Arzak. My rating: 5/5
Arzak is an excellent restaurant, led by Elena Arzak
The history of the Arzak restaurant in San Sebastián dates back to 1897, when Juan Mari Arzak's grandparents opened a tavern on the site where the restaurant stands today. Initially, this tavern was a simple establishment where local food and wine were served. Over time, it was transformed into a full-fledged restaurant under the management of Juan Mari's parents, particularly his mother, who was renowned for her traditional Basque cooking.
Juan Mari Arzak took over the restaurant in the 1960s and revolutionized it, becoming one of the pioneers of Nueva Cocina Vasca (New Basque Cuisine), which blends traditional Basque flavors with innovative techniques. Under his leadership, the Arzak restaurant gained international acclaim and earned its three Michelin stars in 1989.
Restaurant Arzak
Alcalde J. Elosegi Hiribidea, 273
Tel: +34 943278465
Today, Elena Arzak, his daughter, who trained in renowned restaurants around the world, works alongside him. Together, they continue to innovate, solidifying the restaurant's reputation as one of the best dining experiences globally. Elena herself has gained international recognition as one of the top chefs. The Arzak family's legacy rests not only on tradition but also on a commitment to constant evolution and innovation in Basque cuisine.
I was welcomed by Elena Arzak, who honored me with a tour of the kitchen, introduced me to her kitchen brigade, and showed me around the restaurant, including its impressive wine cellar.
Today, Elena Arzak, his daughter, who has trained in renowned restaurants around the world, works alongside him. Together, they continue to innovate, reinforcing the restaurant's reputation as one of the best dining experiences globally. Elena has also gained international acclaim as one of the top chefs. The Arzak family's legacy is built not only on tradition but also on a commitment to continuous evolution and innovation in Basque cuisine.
An exceptional cuisine; I experienced a divine meal of remarkable quality, with a more authentic and approachable style compared to that of Akelarre.
Chef Elena Arzak is always present in the dining room, personally ensuring that every guest, who has traveled from all corners of the world to enjoy her cuisine, leaves delighted.
An unforgettable culinary journey at Arzak, where each star-rated dish tells a story of tradition and innovation, enhanced by a unique family touch.
